Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
